Saturday, November 26, 2016

Units of Measurement

For this blog I will be using a combination of measurements. The European approach of measuring dry and greasy ingredients by weight is far more accurate and less messy. I strongly recommend purchasing a baking scale. They are inexpensive and very useful. Because they can easily switched imperial/metric, I will keep the metric gram measurements in the original recipe.

The same goes for volume: mL are displayed on most measuring cups, so can easily be used instead of traditional US or imperial units.

For teaspoon and tablespoon (Esslöffel (El) and Teelöffel (Tl), respectively), the German measurements differ slightly from the American ones, but I will use the US spoons as the standard, since I cannot find German spoons.

Fruit Streusel Cake - Miele Combi Steam Oven Recipe

"Obststreuselkuchen"

SEE REVIEW BELOW

50 minute baking program.
Use a 26 cm (10") springform pan.

Finished result. See review for my impressions.

Dough

  • 2 large eggs
  • 75 g butter, soft
  • 110 g sugar
  • 130 g white pastry flour
  • 1 packet Dr. Oetker Backpulver OR
    • 2 tsp. cream of tartar +
    • 1 tsp. baking soda
  • 50 g finely ground almonds
  • 120 g sour cream
  • 1 Tbsp. vanilla sugar

Filling

500 g fresh or canned fruit, such as cherries, apricots, or berries

Streusel

  • 50 g white pastry flour
  • 50 g sugar
  • 50 g finely ground almonds
  • 50 g butter, cold
Butter to grease the pan
Parchment paper

Got all my ingredients ready while the baby was sleeping, so I could leap into action when she went down for her nap.

Recipe

  1. Use a mixer to combine all of the dough ingredients until smooth.
  2. Grease the sides of the springform pan, then place parchment on the base, then latch the outer ring over the parchment.
  3. Pour the batter into the pan.
  4. Wash, pit, and slice the fruit, then spread across the dough.
  5. Use a fork or food processer to blend together the streusel ingredients to form a crumbly topping.
  6. Sprinkle the streusel over the fruit.
  7. Place the pan in the oven and bake.

Baking Program

AUTO MASTERCHEF >> CAKES/PASTRIES >> FRUIT STREUSEL CAKE
Select desired browning (I recommend 1-2)

Review

Overall the finished result was delicious, but it did not match up with images I googled. Usually it is made with apricots, but I find the apricots in MN to be utterly tasteless, so I used frozen cherries. I would like to know if this could be made with frozen or canned apricots. My sponge wound up rather dense, which I think may be due to the ground almonds--I possibly should have ground them finer. The topping did not wind up like struedel at all, and I'm not sure why. I think I may have blended it too thoroughly. I should definitely attempt this one again to get it right!

Baking Powder vs. Backpulver and How to Substitute with Cream of Tartar and Baking Soda

Most quick bread recipes in the Miele cookbook call for "1 Päckchen Backpulver", and it is tempting to substitute the backing powder available in the US. However, German baking powder is slow-acting, while the US baking powder is faster double-acting. This is discussed in detail here.

To keep it simple, here is the approach I recommend:

For every cup of flour (106 to 120 g), use

  • 2 tsp. cream of tartar +
  • 1 tsp. baking soda.
Mix the dough quickly and immediately place into the baking pan to cook in a preheated oven. It is "single-acting", which means it immediately creates the leavening bubbles, and will not produce more bubbles during baking the way that US double-acting baking powder does.

Dr. Oetker's Backpulver can be purchased on Amazon, and is the product most commonly used in Germany.

Sunday, November 20, 2016

Finding German-style Flour in the United States

Leave it to the Germans to come up with a numerical system for categorizing types of flour. Not only are they probably the best bread-makers in the world, they also have a strong value for organization!

Nearly all of the recipes in the Miele cookbook call for "Weizenmehl Type 405". This refers to what we know as "pastry flour", with a gluten content of 8-10%. Unfortunately, it also seems to be the hardest wheat flour to find. I am located in Minnesota, and although 38% of Minnesotans report some German heritage (including my husband), our bread game is weak.


The basic types of flour and their gluten content in the US:

  1. Bread Flour: 14 - 16%
  2. All-Purpose (AP) Flour: 10 - 12%
  3. Pastry Flour: 9%
  4. Cake Flour: 7-8%

Looking online, Amazon's offerings are very limited for flour. Instead, I ordered directly from King Arthur Flour. They have pastry flour available in 3 lb. bags, as well as many of the other specialty flours used in German breads. I recommend registering your email so you can get a coupon, as the shipping is expensive. I will keep you updated with my experience with these specialty flours.

Bob's Red Mill makes a pastry flour, which I have not been able to find in stores. I did find Arrowhead Mills', but it seemed at least partly whole-grain and did not give as light a texture as I expected.

Here is a great article on types of German flour, and I will copy the highlights below in case the link ever breaks.

Pastry flour differs from AP flour in more than just gluten content. It is made with softer varieties of wheat. Despite this, you can approximate it by mixing the easier-to-find AP and cake flours together. I have found different ratios online, but by my math, a 1:1 combination for all-purpose:cake flour should get you to about 9.5% gluten. Whether this is qualitatively the same as pastry flour, I don't yet know.


Useful words:

  • Mehl = flour
  • Weizen = wheat
  • Roggen = rye
  • Dinkel = spelt
  • Vollkorn = whole grain

Overview of German flour from Germanfoodguide.com:

Pastry Flour (Flour Type 405) 

Germany's Flour Type 405 is equivalent to pastry flour. Pastry flour is made from soft wheat and has a gluten content of 8-10%. It is soft and ivory in color. Because of its low gluten content, it is best used for baked goods that should have a soft consistency yet still needs some structure, such as muffins, buscuits, pie crust, tart dough, cookies, some sweet yeast doughs, etc.

Pastry flour is available in the U.S. in health food stores, specialty stores, and mail-order businesses. To make a flour with the same gluten content as pastry flour, combine 1 1/3 cups (185g) all-purpose flour and 2/3 cup (90g) cake flour (which is available in most markets and has a gluten content of 6-8%).

All Purpose Flour (Flour Type 550) 

Germany's Flour Type 550 is equivalent to all-purpose flour. All-purpose flour is made from a blend of hard and soft wheats and has a gluten content of 9-11%. It can be bleached or unbleached, which are interchangeable (bleached flour is whiter and has less vitamin E than unbleached flour).

All-purpose flour is used mainly in home baking because it is the most versatile flour. It can be used in baking a large variety of goods. However, breads won't be as chewy as if bread flour was used. Likewise, cakes won't be as tender as if cake flour was used. All-purpose flour is not typically used by professional bakers.

Bread Flour (Flour Type 812) 

Germany's Flour Type 812 is equivalent to bread flour. Bread flour is made from a hard wheat and has a gluten content of 11-13%. It is pale yellow when first milled and turns off-white with aging. It feels slightly granular when rubbed between your fingers.

This is the best flour to use for breads and hard rolls. Its high gluten content gives bread the structure needed to rise and hold its shape.

High Gluten Flour (Flour Type 1050) 

High gluten flour is a white flour made from hard wheat and contains at least 13-14.5% gluten. It is best used in conjunction with other grains and flour to provide more structure. It is also good for breads that are extra elastic such as bagels and pizza.

High-gluten flour should not be confused with vital wheat gluten, a pure gluten powder that can be used in small amount to strengthen weak flour.

To make high gluten flour, all-purpose and bread flours can be supplemented with vital wheat gluten. Vital wheat gluten is found in small bags at specialty and natural food stores. Follow the instructions on the package of the vital wheat gluten for proper proportions.

Whole Wheat Flour (Flour Type 1600) 

Germany's Flour Type 1600 is equivalent to whole wheat flour. It is brown in color and is derived from the whole wheat kernel, including the germ and bran. It is more flavorful than white flours which do not include the germ. Because the germ is included, there are more nutrients, fiber and fat in whole wheat flour.

When used in bread baking, it gives a nutty flavor and a denser texture when compared to white flours. Bread made from whole wheat flour is heavier and does not rise as high as breads made from white flour, so often a combination of whole wheat and white flours are used.

Rye Flour (Roggen Mehl 1150) 

Germany's Roggen Mehl Number 1150 is equivalent to a medium to dark rye flour. Rye flour is darker than flours made from wheat and it has higher amounts of vitamins B and E.

Rye flour is used most often for breads and bread rolls. It imparts a slightly sour flavor to breads. Breads made with rye flour have a longer shelf life and taste fresh longer than breads made with wheat flours. It is also often combined with other flours because of its low gluten content.

Pumpernickel Flour (Roggen-Vollkornmehl) 

Germany's Roggen-Vollkornmehl flour is equivalent to pumpernickel flour or a whole rye meal. It is a flour made from the whole rye grain, including the bran and germ.

Breads made with whole rye flour are hearty, with a slight sour flavor, and have a grainy texture. Whole rye flour is often combined with rye flour or other wheat flours to produce a smoother and lighter taste.

White Spelt Flour (Dinkel Mehl 630) 

Germany's Dinkel Mehl 630 is equivalent to white spelt flour. It is a flour made from finely milled spelt grain. In Germany, it is often used instead of Flour Type 405. It is excellent for bread baking, but is usually combined with other flours because of its high gluten content. Also, because it is high gluten content, bread doughs made with 100% spelt flour can quickly become over-kneaded, resulting in a tough, dry product.

 Whole Spelt Flour (Dinkel-Vollkornmehl) 

Germany's Dinkel-Vollkornmehl is equivalent to whole spelt flour. It is a flour made from the whole spelt grain.

Saturday, November 19, 2016

How to Make or Find Vanilla Sugar

Many recipes call for "1 Päckchen Vanillezucker", or one packet vanilla sugar. This is the more common form of vanilla in Europe, but can be hard to find in the US. Good news, though--you can make your own! One packet is about a tablespoon of sugar.

  1. Buy whole vanilla pods (Penzey's is a good source)
  2. Use them for a recipe, such as crème brûlée
  3. This is done by splitting the pod in half with a sharp knife, then using the knife to scrape the tiny beans out of the pod and adding them to the custard creme.
  4. Save the pods!
  5. Place the empty pods in a sealed container of 2-3 cups sugar. 
  6. Allow to sit for one week and you will have vanilla-scented sugar. 
  7. You can leave the pods in the sugar indefinitely, and keep refilling the sugar. They will flavor your sugar for a long time.
If you want to purchase the packets of vanilla sugar, they can be found on Amazon or in upscale grocery stores. Penzey's also sells jars of vanilla sugar.

You can also use liquid vanilla extract in some recipes, but use your judgement and only put them in recipes where they won't significantly change the texture or color of the dough. For instance, for meringues, vanilla will tint them brown. 

Fine Apple Cake - Miele Combi Steam Oven

"Apfeltorte Fein"

SEE REVIEW BELOW

50 minute baking program.
Use a 26 cm (10") springform pan.

A juicy slice.

Dough

  • 150 g softened butter
  • 150 g sugar
  • 1 packet vanilla sugar (1 Tbsp)
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 1/2 packet grated lemon zest (1.5 tsp)
  • 3 large eggs
  • 150 g white pastry flour
  • 1/2 tsp. baking powder
  • Butter to grease pan
  • Breadcrumbs 

Toppings

  • 500 g apple (3-4 medium apples)
  • Powdered sugar

Recipe

  1. Use a stand or handheld mixer to combine the butter, sugar, vanilla sugar, salt, lemon zest, and egg until light and fluffy.
  2. Fold in the flour and baking powder until thoroughly combined.
  3. Grease the springform pan and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.
  4. Peel, core, and halve the apples. Place each half with the cored side down and then slice into thin (30 mm/~1/8") slices. Keep the sliced apple halves in the hemisphere shape and place them into the pan, spacing out the apple hemispheres around the pan. The dough will rise up between the apple halves for a decorative effect.
  5. Bake using the Baking Program.
  6. When cool, sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving.

Baking Program

AUTO MASTERCHEF >> CAKES/PASTRIES >> APPLE CAKE
Select desired level of browning and begin program (I recommend low browning, maybe level 2 or 3)


Butter the pan and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Place the sliced apple halves with cored-side down.
Surround with batter.



Baked, cooled, and sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Notes

I used Braeburn apples, but any good baking apple would do. See the picture for how to arrange the apples. I recommend using more than 500 g apples so that there's more apple in every bite.

It appears that in Germany, dried lemon zest is a common baking ingredient. I have never found packets of this, but Penzey's offers a powdered lemon peel, which I used. This has strong lemon flavor and is a convenient way to always have lemon zest on hand. 

See this post on vanilla sugar if you can't make or find that ingredient.

Review

This did not turn out as well as I'd hoped. It is definitely the progenitor of my family's recipe for Emma Fischer's Apple Pudding, but it would be improved by the following:

  • Use white pastry flour. I was only able to find Arrowhead Mill's pastry flour, which appeared to be at least partially whole grain. This made a heavier cake.
  • Increase apples to at least 4 apples per cake. I wanted more apple in each bite.
  • Use a lower browning setting. I used the middle, default setting. This created a dry and over-browned edge. Next time I will try level 2.
  • Honestly, I like the higgledy-piggledy pile of apples in my family's version, because it makes for more apple goodness and the batter is distributed better throughout. However, this sliced apple-halves appears to be the standard German approach from what I found on Google image search.

Iced Apple Pie - Miele Combi Steam Oven

"Apfeltorte gedeckt"

Use a 26 cm (10") springform pan.
54 minute baking program.

Dough


  • 300 g white pastry flour
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 200 g butter
  • 100 g sugar
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 1 packet of vanilla sugar (1 Tbsp)
  • 1 large egg 
  • butter for greasing the pan

Filling

  • 1250 g apple
  • 50 g raisins
  • 50 g sugar
  • 10 mL Calvados
  • juice of one lemon
  • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

Icing

  • 100 g powdered sugar
  • water

Recipe

  1. Combine flour, baking powder, butter, sugar, salt, vanilla sugar, and the egg, and knead into a smooth dough. Let rest in the fridge until cooled through.
  2. Divide the dough into thirds. Roll out one third and press into the bottom of a greased 10" springform pan.
  3. Roll out the second third of dough into a log, and press into the side of the springform so that it forms a 3 cm/1" rim up the sides of the pan. Use a fork to press grooves into the edge.
  4. Peel and core the apples, then cut into 1-2 cm (~1/2") pieces. Combine with the raisins, sugar, Calvados, lemon juice, and cinnamon. Scoop into the pastry-lined pan.
  5. Roll out the last third of dough and place it over the apples. Pinch the edges to seal. Slash several times with a knife to allow steam to escape.
  6. Bake according to Baking Program
  7. Allow to cool. Combine powdered sugar with enough water to make a pour-able icing. Drizzle over the top of the pie.

Baking Program

AUTO MASTERCHEF >> CAKES/PASTRIES >> APPLE PIE >> BAKE
Set the desired level of browning and then start program.
Refer to original cookbook if you need to program manually.

Notes

I was not able to find Calvados, so I used American apple brandy. See this post on vanilla sugar if you need help finding/making that ingredient.

Monday, November 14, 2016

Reheat Leftovers Program - Miele Combi Steam Oven

This is probably my first truly successful custom program; we use it all the time in our house, and it has replaced the microwave for most things. It heats things through quickly without drying them out. It works best if you place the leftovers on a plate or in the solid cooking pan or universal tray, so they are spread out. Chunky things (i.e. roasts) should be sliced first, to provide more surface area.

Use: Special Modes → Reheat

  • Temperature: 285° F
  • Duration: 0:10 minutes
  • Humidity: 60%
Place the dish of food in the oven before starting. Remove with care, as the dish will be hot.

Introduction

Why this blog?

I was fortunate enough to be able to build my dream kitchen, and the Miele Combi Steam Oven was a splurge I made. I wanted to explore some all-new techniques for cooking. Overall I love what I've been able to do with it so far. However, there are disappointingly few recipes for it in English, and in general not much information on using it available online. Miele USA has a recipe site, but it is limited, and seems to have no relationship to the Auto MasterChef programs.

To remedy this, I have found the German language recipe book, and although I speak no German, I will do my best with Google Translate. I want to get to know my oven better and learn its capabilities, and I will post the results here, so that other people who are looking for combi-steam oven recipes can find them.